Via dei Velluti

Via dei Velluti - Beppe

Memories of Via dei Velluti: The artisan heart of the Oltrarno

A personal journey through the historic workshops of Florence.

Via dei Velluti in Florence’s Oltrarno district, like everywhere else in the Santo Spirito and San Frediano neighborhoods, is a street that once housed numerous artisan workshops. When I arrived in December 1984, there were fifteen workshops; now there are only three left.The street was alive with the voices and jokes of the artisans, the sounds of work, and sometimes even lunches together. Now that so many of the workshops on Via dei Velluti have disappeared, I can only remember a few on my website with great nostalgia.

The faces of the street

  • Cipriani: My great mentor, of course, a highly regarded restorer with whom I remained for about ten years.
  • Beppe: Next to my workshop was Beppe, a furniture restorer and also an excellent cook; he was the one in charge of cooking when we had lunch together.
  • Andrea: Now in his eighties, who sometimes still comes in the morning to enjoy himself with his naïve artist’s work, used to help his uncle, a furniture restorer, in his spare time.
  • Luigi: Across from me was Luigi, a wood carver and gilder, who remained in the shop until he was 88. A true example of what it means to be alive in spirit.
  • Enrico: A restorer of antique books, descendant of a family of artisans with at least 180 years of history. He recently retired at the age of over eighty.
  • The other masters: Blacksmith Sciabolino, Aldo the violin maker, and Elio, another wood carver.

A changing landscape

Some of these workshops have been converted into homes, others are offices or warehouses. The street is no longer as lively as it once was; it is often quiet, and when it rains, especially in autumn, it is very sad.

I console myself with the satisfaction of meeting the people who come to attend my courses, from Italy and abroad, and this gives a sense of life to my days as a craftsman.